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The Alfama - Ancient Moorish Quarter of Lisbon

alfama lisbon

Discover in the Alfama the sounds, smells and sights of Old Lisbon. It survives as a living memory to 2 major Lisbon civilizations – The Romans and Arabs. A steep labyrinth of winding alleyways of Arabic design with a concentrated hub of private and family businesses. Cobbled streets wind back on themselves and widen out delightfully, at only a few places. Decked with overhanging washing and with a community life of its own. Be amazed by the smallness of the doors. The Alfama contrasts with the rationally designed streets of the Baixa below. Navigate your way through using the landmark Churches of Saint Estevao and Saint Miguel or pick up a walking map from a Tourist Office. You may want your camera and notepad. The panoramic views and Lisbon's soft white light inspire Photographers and Artists.


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alfama lisbon

Atmosphere and Daily Life


In The Alfama, stone steps lead to houses above and often, below street level. Light and shade throw shadows on a wall of peeling plaster. There are sounds of invisible children are playing in a schoolyard. Music wafts down from an attic window and mixes with the crows of an cockerel on a balcony. A new washing machine is carried step by step past the old Communal Wash House. Old women lean out to talk and peg washing. Ancient urban design and Atlantic climate determine a way of life. The Alfama community has needed Resilience, Care and everyday Skills. Above all, it's a community where the people and local festivals tell its story. It needs time to breath it in and there are plenty of small bars called "Tascas" to slow down with some grilled sardines and a crisp Portuguese White Wine.



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alfama lisbon

The Moors and Lisbon Fado


The Muslim Arabs who lived here for over 500 years were forced out by Christian Crusaders away from their commercial hub and fishing livelihood. The south-facing Alfama was exchanged for the less auspicious Mouraria or "Moorish Quarter". The haunting sounds of FADO, sung in bars, suggest they never completely left. Fado is based on the common themes of the joys and the sufferings of the city's working class. It is a transfixing combination of melody and voice. The music is composed of 4 line stanzas accompanied by a 12 string classical guitar. A night in a local FADO bar in The Alfama or Bairro Alto makes for an authentic Lisbon night out. The Lisbon Fado story turns full circle with MARISA – Portugual's international Fado sensation. Raised in the Mouraria, Marisa learned to read by singing Fado lyrics in her parent's restaurant. Following the death of Lisbon Fado icon AMALIA, Marisa has taken Portugal's Blues Music out of these narrow, cobbled streets to New York's Carnegie Hall and a world-wide audience.

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Jewish History

Alfama Jewish history is the inspiration for American writer Richard Zimler who lives in Portugal. “The Last Kabbalist” published in 1998, is set around The Alfama's ancient Jewish quarter's around Rua da Sao Pedro and Rua da Sinagoga. Set in 1506, the year of the violent auto-da-fes of Lisbon Jews. This was Portugal's contribution to the Counter Reformation in Europe and motivated by Spain's cruel Inquisitional methods. Rossio is Lisbon's main square and the site for the live roasting of Jews. The details of 16th century Lisbon Jewish life mostly disappeared too. The book is the author's attempt to draw a picture with his imaginary tale of a secret synagogue and the death in the neighborhood of a renowned Kabbalist. The story draws us in to the secretive lives and religious traditions that survived. In Largo de Sao Domingos, just off Rossio,a monument commemorates Lisbon Jews. In 1904, the Shaare Tikve Synagogue (Gales of Hope Synagogue)was inaugurated at 59 Rua A Herculano . It marks the slow return of Sephardi Jews to Lisbon. The synagogue currently serves 500 families but still hopes for a permanent Rabbi.



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Museum of Decorative Arts

Museu das Artes Decorativas at Rua Augusta Rosa is in a 17th century palace with original Azulejos - A magnificent collection of traditional Portuguese Furniture and Arraiolos rugs which graced floors of 17th & 18th century European palaces. Plus Portuguese Porcelain, Glass, Silverware and Hand-embroidered Shawls. The workshops next door also set up by Ricardo Espirito Santos keep these traditional Portuguese crafts alive. Visit workshops specializing in Gilding, Wood Carving and Cabinet Making using traditional techniques and designs.
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Lisbon Cathedral

lisbon cathedral

The Se (Cathedral) built in 1150 is rumored to be on the site of an ancient mosque. The Cathedral collapsed during the Great Lisbon Earthquake killing hundreds of devout Christians. The cruel irony of the tragedy rocked Christian faith throughout Europe. Subsequently rebuilt at different periods, it now resembles a fortress with two Romanesque towers and a rose window. In 1388 an angry crowd threw Castilan Bishop Martinho Anes from one of the towers having been appointed against the will of the Portuguese by Pope Clement VII. Lisbon other Patron - Saint Antony was baptized here in 1195. Inside are Gothic arches, cloisters and tombs of the first Archbishop Joao Anes and Lopo Fernandes Pacheco with a dog at his feet. Dorothy Wordsworth's daughter records in her 1845 journal, seeing bodies of dead infants lying at the cathedral altar. She was witness in fact to a custom of impoverished Lisbon mothers who were unable to pay for a Christian burial.

ALFAMA - Lisbon Moorish Quarter TOP
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