Lisbon's Chiado - Fashionable and Artistic Center
Lisbon's Chiado quarter Fascinating blend of Portuguese tradition and modern Lisbon street life . Portuguese fashion houses, Art Nouveau cafes, galleries and bookshops – it combines modernity with Portuguese tradition with a laid back atmosphere all of its own. The intellectual and artistic heart of Lisbon – comparable for it's eclectic mix perhaps with New York's Soho. There's a gentle buzz here that never gets too frantic or too trendy. Artists, shoppers and tourists converge but a traditional Portuguese etiquette and courtesy prevail - making it a friendly and relaxing place. A fascinating old neighborhood, the Chiado is the birthplace and cafe haunt of Portugal's modernist writer Pessoa. In the magnificent Saint Carlos Theater opposite his home, audiences were treated to Toscanini, Strauss and Maria Callas. Today's artistic and cultural life include students and artists from Lisbon's school of Belas Artes (1837), National Museum of Contemporary Art (1850-) and numerous design and Portuguese Art galleries and Book Shops. Portuguese gourmet restaurants and Seafood Bars are scattered throughout the area. The Chiado has more than it's share of Lisbon monuments. It's a beautiful, lively and fascinating neighborhood and a place to enjoy the best of Lisbon. Lisbon Culture 
Santa Justa ElevatorYou can arrive gracefully in the Chiado by Lisbon's historic Santa Justa Elevator. Built in 1909, it connects Rossio Lisbon square up 136 feet to the Chiado quarter. The uniformed attendants and cabins of varnished wood take you back to the glamor of Lisbon's Art Nouveau heyday. A lattice steel structure with an imposing arrivals gallery – which I too hope will always be “a machine to visit the moon” as French writer Valery Larbaud declared! Urban myth has it built by Alexander Eiffel. In fact, his Portuguese trainee Mesnier de Ponsard engineered 2 alternating and originally steam-powered cabins. The views over the streets of the Baixa and the Alfama are spectacular. These days, locals jostle with tourists who have made it one of the most popular Lisbon monuments. Wonderfully, it remains part of the Lisbon transport system which accepts the cheap Lisbon travel card and customary politeness. Lisbon SightsCafe LifeCafe Brazileira is a Lisbon institution and one of my favorite places for a lazy Portuguese breakfast. In the 1920's it became the modern art gallery Lisbon lacked and still exhibits a series of modernist paintings made by some of the artists and art students from the nearby Escola das Belas Artes who made it their creative and intellectual meeting house. A more sinister clientel were Salazar's secret police also spotted here. The cafe's interior conveys a sober romanticism whilst the tables outside is a great place to take in the Chiado's people and atmosphere. Solar do Vinho do Porto – Lisbon's Port Wine Institute sells port wine by the glass. The gentlemen's club atmosphere provides a relaxing break on the way up to the delightful garden and antique shops of Prinipe Real. Lisbon Cafes Home of Portuguese Artists and Poets
In Largo das Duas Igrejas (Place of the Two Churches) is the bronze seated figure of Fernando Pessoa errected on the centenary of his birth. As such he still sits outside his favorite Chiado haunt Cafe Brazileira. His fame overshadows the nearby monument to the16th century peoples poet Friar Antonio do Espirito Santo -or Poeta Chiado as he was known. Nearby too is the Portuguese monument to national poet Luis Camoes (1524-80) - Portugal's Homer. The bronze/limestone monument depicts Camoes above 8 historical figures including navegator Pedro Nunes and no less than 3 more Portuguese poets. From here you look down to the River Tagus – the point of departure for Portugal's historical maritime expeditions. Camoes' epic poem “The Lusiads”, was saved from a shipwreck. It chronicles the voyages of explorer Vasco da Gama under the gaze of the Gods. In Rua Alecrim, the stone sculpture to the Portuguese romantic writer Eca de Queiroz depiects the naked, partially veiled female figure. It represents the Portuguese words of the writer inscribed underneath - “On the Strong Nakedness of Truth the Transparent Veil of Fancy”. Lisbon Culture Bars, Shops and Restaurants
Lisbon Shopping
The Chiado's main street Rua Garrett has been the intellectual and artistic center of Lisbon. Nowadays, there's a sophisticated blend of Portuguese Culture, fashion houses and up-market shopping - Havana Cigars, Portuguese Fine Porcelain, Chocolate, Coffee and African Tea from Portuguese colonies. Old Europe still influences - elegant linen from the “Paris in Lisbon” store and bespoke Tailors of “Piccadilly”. Thoroughly Portuguese stores are “Eloy de Jesus”and other exquisite Art Nouveau jewelers selling antique silver and gold. . Here too are Portuguese fashion houses who showcase in Lisbon Fashion Week.(March/October). Armazens do Chiado was originally an Art Nouveau department store and people's eyes glaze over when they remember it. It's destruction along with many old shops was caused by great Chiado fire in 1988. Now rebuilt, it houses a number of stores. Off Rua Garrett are atmospheric bistro bars and restaurants. Cervejaria Alemae on Rua Nova de Trinidad is a popular Lisbon bar/restaurant serving great tapas seafood. For elegance, the Portuguese gourmet restaurant Belcanto offers superb food and a sophisticated atmosphere. The Saint Carlos Theater restaurant offers gourmet food in 18th century luxury surroundings. For some Lisbon romance, a table outside in the square on a Lisbon summer night is hard to beat. Enjoying Lisbon 
Squares, Gardens and Spectacular ViewsThe Chiado is full of lovely squares. Some have cafes and shops hidden in corners and fantastic views to the sea. There are great restaurants with opportunities to eat outside. The fantastic view from Mirador San Pedro de Alcantara is one of the best of Lisbon - Look down on Avenida de Liberdad the main artery of Lisbon center and across to Saint George Castle and the River Tagus. Tropical palm trees reach in to the blue Lisbon skies shading the busy streets below. . Magical Lisbon Experience Lisbon 
Convents and ChurchesThe Convento do Carmo and Archaeological Museum is at the top of the Santa Justa Elevator. What remains of the original church and 3 naves are a monument to the Lisbon earthquake. It was once the most beautiful church in Lisbon now it adds a gentle Gothic touch to teh Lisbon skyline.It was in this square in front of the romantic ruins that the revolution began in April 1974. Today it is a lovely place to take a coffee and watch the world go by. The views from here are also spectacular. Lisbon Churches
There are 3 churches on Rua Garrett/Largo das Duas Egrejas. Igreja dos Italianos (The Italian's Church) is notable for the frescos of it's Italian painters and a style which spread through Lisbon churches. San Roque Church and adjacent museum gleams will the artistic achievement, gold, jewels and mosaic marble. The magnificent Chapel of John the Baptist (1747) by Italian architect Salvi e Vanvitelli deployed the finest craftsmen and materials at great expense to King Joao V. The Sacred Art Museum of Sao Roque houses the surplus wealth including and a cope with 15kilos of gold and Brazilian rubies. In contrast, outiside in the square is the figure of a Lisbon pauper, hand extended to display his lottery ticket. The statue alludes to the adjacent Lisbon alms house and Portuguese charity – Casa Misericordia. They still provide much of Portugal's social services, often on a shoestring budget and are financed largely by a national lottery. chiado top home Lisbon Districts Lisbon Culture magical lisbon portuguese food white lisbon
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