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Marques de Pombal and Northern Lisbon


Campo Pequeno against an intense blue sky in May 2009 A North Lisbon Landmark and Events Venue with Relaxing Cafes and Restaurants.


Often Travelers miss out on Marques de Pombal, Avenidas and North Lisbon - it should be a part of every Lisbon itinerary. The Gulbenkian is here of course - and most Lisbon dwellers live in this direction. It is elegant, cultural, - great for food and shopping.

The busiest part of town is Marques de Pombal, a huge Lisbon Monument to a major Portuguese historical figure. Also known simply as Rotunda, at the foot of the park dedicated to King Edward VII. The city's main traffic hub where roads from all directions meet. To the North are fashionable and prosperous areas.

Planned at the end of the 19th Century, intended as residential, with good quality of life, away from the overcrowded central area, these light and airy streets retain a civilized elegance. The Architect Frederico Rossano Garcia was the visionary behind the city expansion project.

Once the suburbs, now modern downtown Lisbon.

Marques de Pombal looks down to the Lisbon he rebuilt in the 18th Century with the park and Modern Lisbon around him.

Marques de Pombal and Parque Edward VII


The recently constucted Esplanade Cafe in Jardim Amalia, dedicated to the great fado singer, is at the top of Edward V11 Park just before you hit the shopping areas in Sao Sebastiao.

Near many big Hotels it is a great place to relax before getting on with the day.


Marques de Pombal dominates his roundabout with triumphal grace. He ordered the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755 so deserves special recognition. Ruthless and determined he ruled with an iron hand - but abolished slavery before other European leaders. The Marquis de Pombal encouraged trade so it is right that he should be here at the hub of the financial and shopping districts of Lisbon.

Behind him the park that commemorates the visit of the English monarch is another fantastic green space in the heart of the city. A great place for a picnic or just to relax.

You must see the Estufas, on the top left of the Park looking away from Marques de Pombal. Huge greenhouses with plants from all over the world. A maze of paths lead to a crazy adventure encompassing deserts and rain forests in a quirky unscientific way. More like a Harry Potter set than a Science dispay! One of our favourite haunts in Lisbon - never ceases to surprise.

Near by there is also a children's park with some adventurous attractions for older kids.

The Estufas are vast greenhouses around a lake in the Park. Inside there are winding paths that lead to gardens within gardens.
Lisbon with Kids

Saldhana and Campo Pequeno


Avenida Republica

The Avenida Republica, begins at Praca Saldhanha north of Marques de Pombal, a good place to start street exploration. Built at the end of the 19th century, a quiet residential zone of beautiful mansions. Now there is a tasteful new shopping centre amongst the decorative old houses and fin de siècle cafes.

A good place for a coffee is the elegant Cafe Versailles, on the left hand side looking up the Avenida, where time seems to have stopped despite the traffic outside.

Campo Pequeno

Walking up the Avenida away from Marques de Pombal you come to Campo Pequeno, Lisbon’s bullring and now a venue for music and other events. There is a multiplex cinema here with mainstream films in English.

Built in 1908 Campo Pequeno is an attractive Lisbon monument in its own right, a tribute to the Moorish past, Andaluz in style. Portuguese bullfights are noted for the display of horsemanship.

The area has become a meeting point for Lisbon dwellers,with cafes serving barbecued meat and sandwiches. People stop for a while after work or a Lisbon shopping trip. A good place to hang out with children, they can play whilst Mum and Dad relax a little.

Relax in the shade with a long drink at Campo Pequeno.


Built in 1908 Campo Pequeno is an attractive Lisbon monument in its own right, a tribute to the Moorish past, Andaluz in style. Portuguese bullfights are noted for the display of horsemanship.

The area has become a meeting point for Lisbon dwellers,with cafes serving barbecued meat and sandwiches. People stop for a while after work or a Lisbon shopping trip. A good place to hang out with children, they can play whilst Mum and Dad relax a little.

Arco do Cego and Praca Londres


Many of the apartment blocks in this area have lovely motifs, often with a maritime theme, part of the joy of walking here is discovering these hidden gems.


Culturegest

At the back of the bullring towers a strange contemporary fortress, The Caixa Geral de Depositos Bank headquarters, and Cultural Centre.Known as Culturegest, housing several auditoriums and galleries showing contemporary Art and Theatre and interesting events for kids, and it is a good idea to check out the programme.

culturegest lisbon Walking southwards, we come to Arco do Cego. A "village" of several streets surrounding a school, built in 1936 as social housing, now an architectural gem, an oasis of calm in the midst of the city.

Praca Londres and Three Elegant Streets

Eastwards we come to Praca Londres one of the airiest squares in town, a meeting point of several distinguished streets with Art Deco buildings. Another possibility for a coffee. On a bright morning in autumn or spring the light here is extraordinary, softly illuminating the pastel buildings and the modernist St John of God church.

From here you could take, Avenida Roma, Paris or Guerra Junqueiro, all impressive streets.

Roma is a middle class Lisbon Shopping area with a great Cinema and Cafes and an Intimate shopping center with small boutiques selling moderately priced designer clothes and fashion stores- CC Acqua Roma. There are Spanish, Brazilian and Portuguese Designer brands.

The top floor has restaurants.

My favourite street in this area is Guerra Junqueiro another Lisbon shopping street but more tranquil than Roma. A wide street of pastel coloured buildings, lit by a soft sun and shaded by mature trees. All the quality of a Spanish Rambla, a place to stroll, watch people, maybe buy something, and enjoy life. Some of the details of the buildings are lovely, the ironwork on a balcony, the decorative tiles above an entrance.

The Alameda

Heading south along Guerro Junquera we suddenly come across one of Lisbon’s big open spaces. The Alameda, a vast green gentle slope where kids play, men battle over cards, and anyone can watch the world. On a good day the quality of life in Lisbon can seem wonderful. On the North side of the Alameda the streets are named after old Theatre Stars, and is called Barrio dos Actores.

lisbon streets Pleasant Shopping Streets around Praca Londres with Cafes, Bars and Cultural Venues
Lisbon Culture Lisbon Shopping

Heading South



Almirante Reis

Almirante Reis is the border between smart areas and the older less tidy districts Graca and Anjos. It is the main artery of everyday Lisbon. A haven for Detective Coelho in Robert Wilson’s prize winning novel A Small Death In Lisbon.

ln the back streets near Chile check out the noisy characterful Market of Arrios where local stall holders display the freshest of fish, cheese and vegetables.

Estafania and Food

If we take a right hand turn at Chile we enter Rua Pascoal de Melo which heads back to Marques de Pombal. On the corner is a Great Lisbon Restaurant, an institution, the Cervegeria Portugalia. Now there are branches all over the city, this is the original and best, worth a visit just for the azulejos, decorative tiles, which adorn the walls.Not the cheapest of Lisbon restaurants but very reliable, great snacks, some prawns or crab, maybe a steak sandwich and glass of draught lager. Another Cervejaria, Ramiro,down Almirante Reis at Intendente is the favourite of many Lisboetas, tourists tend to find the waiters brusque. They are not really, just rushed off their feet, just great for seafood and beer.

If we prefer a budget three course lunch ? Walking down Pascual de Melo we come to the Largo of Estafania, where roads head off to Central Lisbon, Marques de Pombal and Saldanha, take the first right, then right again to Rua Cidade de Horta, here are two of the cheapest and best lunch restaurants in Lisbon. La Floresta has an older clientèle seeking home style cooking at reasonable prices. Cabaca next door provides busy workers with an excellent full scale lunch menu for just over 7 euros. There are also less hectic restaurants near by, if there is a crowd of locals it's usually a good bet.

After lunch take a siesta, or just read a book in a park. You could return to Parque Edward V11 near Marques de Pombal. Personally, I would prefer going South to Campo Matires de Patria, past the hospitals and civic buildings, between the two big avenues of Lisbon. One of the larger gardens in central Lisbon yet a little cut off from the city flow. Matires de Patria or Campo Santa Ana, just a short walk from the central squares of the city.Wonderful old trees shade a pond where children feed ducks and Peacocks stare haughtily from the branches above. To me it is one of the most romantic spots in town.There is an curiosity near here that you should not miss Elevedor de Lavra.It takes you right back into Restauradores. A city secret, you need a good map but you will be delighted when you find it.
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