White Lisbon - The Lisbon of Stories and Inspiration
White Lisbon. A visual city, Seductive, Narcissistic, Photogenic. The White City. A city of narratives. An inspiration to filmmakers, poets and novelists. There is something in this city that fascinates. Details of the streets, trams, musicians, bars, views, curiosities. There are stories to tell in White Lisbon, where boats arrive and travelers enter the city. Or leave for other lives. How do they feel as they look back at Lisbon disapearing in the haze ? West of Rossio Lisbon's Center, along the river, probably the most poetic part of the city. White Lisbon because of the light, - this is the area Alain Tanner used for the setting of his film "In the White City". Quay-side Lisbon, the smell of fish, boats, docks, the sea always calling. Old fashioned, suddenly trendy, run down and rejuvenated, a mixed bag of wonders, a chaos with mystery - real Lisboa. 
Praca Dom Luis near Cais Sodre Station and Ribeira Market White Lisbon The Lisbon City Council Square.
White Lisbon. The home of the Lisbon Town Council a dignified square where the light can make stone seem weightless. Let us begin at the The Lisbon Town Council buildings at Praca do Concelho near Praca Comercio and the Post Office where the King was assassinated in 1908. The intense light here gives the stone of the central spiral a gravity defying lightness. An 18th Century construction made from a single stone, nowadays accompanied in the square by more modern playful pieces. The town hall building itself was designed by Domingos Parente and contains impressive paintings and a wonderful staircase. Let us go now down Rua Arsenal where there is an intense smell of dried fish towards Rua Alecrim with it's trendy shops to the transport center of downtown Lisbon. Cais Sodre.
Cais SodreThere is something magical about Cais Sodre, the local port terminal and train staion. If you live in Lisbon you know Cais Sodre. It is the human heart of the city. You see a thousand stories at Cais Sodre, people arriving, rushing home, waiting, meeting, parting, longing, Romance and a fair share of sadness.This was once the haunt of sailors looking for a good time it had a bad reputation, but now it has an authentic and vibrant feel, The sleazy clubs and brothels have almost all been replaced by good cafes and bars. Cais Sodre is also the place for crossing the river to take in the unbelievable views from Cacilhas. A convenient way to hit the nighlife at Docas Alcantara. The place to take the trains to the fantastic beaches at Oeiras and Cascais or to vist the wonderful Lisbon Monuments at Belem. We often go to Zarazuela on Rua Arsenal on the way from Comercio it has great croissants, or the British Bar opposite with a fantastic selection of spirits, featured in the film by Alain Tanner "In the White City". Here you find the clock that goes backwards. Don’t expect British colonialism, this is a bar with real Lisboa atmosphere. Another literary connection, the hero of nobel prize winner Jose Saramrgo's novel The Death of Ricardo Reis stays in a hotel near the British Bar after he arrives from South America. There is a very good restaurant over the square just before the market, Porto Abrigo, and next to it a well known Irish Pub O'Gillans .
Mercado de Ribeira
Just west of Cais Sodre is another of the Lisbon landmarks. The Ribeira market, Ribeira means quayside and this is a great place to buy fish. Many Lisbon restaurants get their fish from here and it can be busy early in the day but later people have time to talk. Check out vegetables, cheeses and cured meats. Ribeira has style, a huge metallic web. Dark but not gloomy. If you enter from the front and go upstairs you can view the serious haggling below. You can also see some fantastic azulejos decorating the walls. There are crafts on sale here too.
Around the market are fascinating shops selling ropes,nets pulley systems, everything and anything for serious fishing.
Sao Paolo- Conde Barao
White Lisbon, The 25 Tram heading towards Avenida Dom Carlos and Conde Barao with great places to eat. Inland from here is Sao Paulo district. In the main Largo, the Church of Sao Paulo built just after the earthquake, 18th century in style, it boasts a beautiful gold altar and distinguished paintings by Joaquim Aguiar.Around this area there are great examples of "azulejos" decorative tiles, on shops and houses. Notice the "Parafusos" (screws) on the Hardware Store and the Corset shop next door, now disused, sadly.Domestic azulejos are lovely on Rua Moeda and Boavista despite some run down buildings, and there is a lovely design on Ultramarina Chemists by Helda Silva Mariete. Not far from the market is the Museum of Communications. There is internet here too and exhibitions showing the History of Communications in Portugal. A nice space to relax and take a coffee. Conde Barao After a while, we come to one of the best areas in White Lisbon for budget eating. There are several good places in the square and alley ways. A wide selection of grilled fish awaits at Triumfante. The interior is gloomy but the food is good. In the alley Rua Merca Todo are several good choices offering grilled fish. A Fabrica is good and caters for large groups but best of all, the haunt of real Lisboetas - Soajeiro. The family originally from Madeira specialise in Fish and Meat grilled on huge wooden skewers. Grilled Cherne to start and a small meat kebab with salad and wine will cost less than 20 euros a really great deal. It is very busy so come early if you want to get a table.
Portuguese Food
Santos - The Changing Face of Lisbon
Past Avenida Don Carlos 1 we come to Santos, another landmark in the White Lisbon Area . Old meets new. Traditional Lisbon, becoming trendy. There are Nightime Bars and Discos. An Alternative Theatre The Barraca. Sushi cafes, Restaurants and Cocktail bars. Deseo, Estado Liquido , Rehab, Hora Espanhol and the Arab tea house Al Sahara. There is a movement to bring design to Santos and an Armani shop and several other stores sell high quality products. An impressive street in this area is Calcada do Marques Abrantes, with Embassies, Restaurants, Bars and a Dance school. Don't miss the Museu das Marioneta in an Ancient White Lisbon Convent in Rua da Esperanca with its great collection of puppets and weekend Children's Shows. It is a truly magical place. 
Janelas Verdes - Art and LifeJanelas Verdes - Art of Living.Just a little further west is one of the great White Lisbon streets. Famous throughout the city. Distinguished Buildings, Hotels, Art Galleries, Elegant Restaurants. We are now in Lapa, the most aristocratic and expensive of Lisbon inner city areas. The embassies are here. Prosperous families live here near Portugal's Parliament Building and the lovely gardens of Estrella. The views from the upper streets over White-Lisbon to the river are fantastic. The famous hotels in this area are Janelas Verdes, York House and Lapa Palace. There are several galleries of modern art and design where Lisbon artists display their work. Among them Leonel Moura and Interescritorio.There are good restaurants, Picanha specialising in grilled meat, The Gato que Ri, vegetarian dishes as well as fish and meat. Largo do Jose Figueredo is one of the many lovely Lisbon squares. Distinguished buildings, a sense of history, sensitive urban design, with lovely streets surrounding. In Rua S Joao de Mata is the Armazen de Cachacas- The Warehouse of Kitchen Spoons. A good place to eat, where the owner displays his extensive collection of large spoons. Fantastic. There is also a Goan restaurant in this street for the adventurous eater. Nearby is the Church of Sao Fransico de Paulo. 18th century, with a fantastic painted ceiling and beautiful representation of the Flight to Egypt.
Museum of Ancient Art
Finally, along Janelas Verdes the Museum of Ancient Art, a landmark of Lisbon Culture. A grand building in lovely gardens with wide views over the port. Another Lisbon monument and place to admire White Lisbon.The collection is impressive with fantastic Middle Eastern, Oriental and Egyptian Art in the first part, Old Masters at the back. You need time to enjoy it. There are many very good Portuguese painings as well as work by Rembrandt and Verlaquez, claimed by the Portuguese as a native son. The impressive and terrifying centrepiece is the medieval masterpiece The Temptation of St Anthony by Hieronymous Bosch. It features in The Last Kabbalist of Lisbon by Richard Zimmler and Antonio Tabbuchi’s novel Requiem.Why the painting is in Lisbon at all is a mystery but it seems appropriate that something so curious should be. Outside the museum is the Garden 9th April. Here there are great views of the port of Lisbon. Westward, we see Docas - the nightlife area of town , the April 25th bridge, and the wonderful new Museum of the Orient. Another great Lisbon cultural venue and gallery.Looking east, the cruise ships docking and the Santos area of White Lisbon.There are several good restaurants near the garden including the stylish restaurant Art Antigua and in Rua Olival one street back, a well known Italian restaurant Come Prima.
Lisbon-Museums
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