Lisbon Centre - A Walk through History
ROSSIO THE HEART OF LISBON LIFE
The very heart of the City is Rossio - historical, dignified and wonderfully calm. It glows in the sun under the gaze of the Castle and the ruins of Carmo - serenely accommodating locals and visitors into the heart of the city. But let us begin as if we have arrived by boat having come up the Tagus past the historic monuments at Belem, under the great bridge of April 25 to the quay at Praca do Commercio or Terreiro do Paco.
Praca do Comercio - The gateway to Lisbon City CentreA vast square in 18th century style, part of the Marques de Pombal rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755. Many government offices are here as well as the Post office and Lisbon Tourist Information. This vast square is being smartened up and the embarkation point for the boats across the river is being refashioned. There are now plans to make the square into a cultural hub. The central equestrian statue is of King Jose 1. Below him are figures showing the rebuilding of the city after the earthquake including The Marques de Pombal himself. You can’t miss the wonderful triumphal arch which is the connection between the square and Rua Augusta. Fernando Pessoa the poet tells us “The allegoric group which crowns the arch, sculptured by Camels, personifies Glory crowning genius and valour;and the recumbent figures which represent the rivers Tagus and Douro” The ever present Marques de Pombal is also represented of course, as well as Vasco da Gama the great Portuguese explorer.
Before leaving the square have a look at Cafe Martinho da Arcadia. It began in 1782 and is one of the oldest cafes in Lisbon. Pessoa used to meet his friends here. It is not cheap but not expensive either and a great place for a beer or coffee outside in the sun.
Inside there is a famous portrait of Fernando Pessoa and the cafe also features in the work of the great 19th century Portuguese novelist Eca de Queiros.
Lisbon Centre - There is always something to talk about in this oldest of Lisbon cafes in the corner of this vast square. The Baixa - Shops, Restaurants, History
The Baixa another candidate for Lisbon Centre begins behind the great arch. Pombal an 18th century man adopted a rational grid system for the streets of the commercial heart of Lisbon. Each connected to business activities a street for Silver, one for Gold , Saddlers ,Cutlers, Gilders etc. Pessoa worked on Gilders street, Doradores, which features in his masterpiece The Book of Disquiet. It is not the most interesting street now. Augusta, Oro and Prata are the best streets to walk up. Most of the Baixa streets are traffic free and calm which is part of the magic of Lisbon Centre.A lot of financial activity still goes on in the Baixa but now there are innumerable cafes and restaurants catering for tourists and locals. Visitors usually sit outside under awnings whilst Lisboetas huddle inside. I love the Baixa because of the details of the buildings, the street lamps, the small shops, it can feel as if you have walked back in time, especially at night when the streets are deserted. The Santa Justa Elevator is one of the great Lisbon monuments. Built by Mesner a pupil of Eifell, it is a sturdy but delicate iron structure which takes you from the lower Baixa to the higher Largo do Carmo and the ruins of the Carmo monastery. You can see it clearly on your left as you walk up the Baixa. At the top of the Baixa there are two squares right in the heart of Lisbon center. On the right is the smaller Praca da Figueras which was once Lisbon’s main market place, old photos show a fantastic iron web covering almost the whole square. Don’t confuse Figuera with Rossio next to it they are very different. 
Rossio Lisbon Centre - Calm and Serene on a May morning 2009
Lisbon Centre - Rossio - The Relaxed Heart of the CityI have always loved Rossio. When I first arrived in Lisbon in 1980 a taxi driver took me to the center of town. I thought he had made a mistake, No neon lights, no big shops, no fast food restaurants ?Rossio is the heart of the city - Lisbon Centre Downtown - not New York or London. Distinguished, 18th century in style , charming. Great buildings, cafes, plenty of history but no sense of pressure. Rossio is also called Praca Dom Pedro IV. Dom Pedro looks down from his lonely pedestal. The liberal king at the time of Portugal's first constitution. Behind him the National Theatre and Railway Station both wonderful buildings. The Inquisition used to hold sessions here, thankfully times have changed. Now there are cafes and an internet center. Water is often a design theme in Lisbon.Two attractive fountains complete the square and the pavements are in wave patterns. Like a huge Brigit Riley painting reflecting the marine origins of Lisbon. The best cafes are Nicola and Suica both dating to the 19th Century. They serve great coffee at reasonable prices.You can take a snack here or a full meal. The decoration in Nicola is particularly attractive and the service in both is good. Suica is famous for hot chocolate.From Rossio you see the old Lisbon of the Castle district, the fashionable Lisbon of the Chiado and the beginnings of modern Lisbon.If you only see one square in Lisbon Centre then Rossio has to be it. In the North east corner of Rossio is the Sao Domingos church. The interior was destroyed by fire and the church is unrestored, The effect has to be seen to be believed. It remains a very a popular church with Lisbon shoppers and workers and a place to contemplate right in the heart of Lisbon center.
Lisbon Churches
Lisbon Cafes
The good life in Lisbon Centre at one of the most traditional spots - Cafe Nicola Restauradores and Liberdade
Avenida Liberdad A Beautiful Avenue in Parisian style with Gardens, Theatres and elegant Shops. Once a huge park where the rich rode in carriages Avenida da Liberdade connects the Pombal Rotunda to Rossio in Lisbon center. The Lisbon monument Restauradores celebrates the victory over the Spanish which re-established Portugal as a state in the 17th century. It was built in 1886. The great avenue called Liberdade by Lisboetas heads North. 90 meters wide and 1500 meters long. Pessoa calls it “the finest artery in Lisbon”There are gardens, ponds, statues and cafes, more traffic now, but you can still relax under the trees.Once the heart of the Lisbon entertainment scene, there are still Theatres and Cinemas. The Cinemateca Portuguesa The Cinemateca Portuguesa going up Liberdade on the left in Rua Barata Salgueiro is one of the world’s great art house cinemas.A perfect place to see classic movies from the great days of cinema. It has a rolling programme showing films of all cultures. There are always English language films on here.There is even a Children’s section near the bottom of Liberdade. Praca de Alegria A favourite haunt of ours is Praca Alegria, up from Elevator da Gloria on the left of Liberdade. A lovely old ramshackle square with a strange central police station in a run down building, a nice residencia hotel and a good restaurant Cascais Remo. Great for fish. Try Pargo if they have it, and a dish of Porco Preto to follow , speciality of the Alentejo region. The Hot Club A tiny space, the Hot Club has been host to jazz greats for years. Louis Armstrong played here in the 50s and Charlie Haden was a favourite with the Portuguese. He was arrested overnight for supporting the opposition in the years of fascism. Parque Mayer Further up Liberdade on the left is Parque Mayer. Once the home of Lisbon music hall now one of Lisbon's Curiosities . There are plans for rejuvenation, but it never quite happens. The great old theatres look forlorn waiting to be restored to former glory. Fascinating dinosaurs of a bygone age.Above this area are lovely botanical gardens but don’t try to reach them from here, despite indications on Lisbon Centre maps there is no way through. They are best approached through Largo do Rato, but that is for another day.
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